The Times (London): Where icebergs compete with humpbacks

…Before long he stood the Cessna on a wing determined to give me my first sight of a moose, finally rewarding me with a fleeing bull.  Touching down in Quirpon harbour, Doris was at the dock.  With her business partner Madonna, she makes everyone’s stay at the lighthouse memorable.  The place is spotless and the Newfoundland food keeps coming, toutons (chunks of deep-fried white bread dough) with bake-apple jam for breakfast and jiggs dinner (salt beef, cabbage, turnip, carrot, potatoes and dumpling) for lunch…

There is more traveling to be done before you reach the keeper’s house: a boat trip, and a three-mile hike through bogs, moss and rocks.  An awesome experience, in the true sense of the word, when one realizes that it was in this area that the Vikings made the first landing in North America 500 years before Columbus.

David Watts